Some surf books make you think. Others make you feel. And a few manage to do both while quietly changing how you see the world and your place in it!
At Xanadu we’ve always believed that reading is one of the best ways to keep your mind flexible and your curiosity alive between sessions.
Whether you’re enjoying a surf trip or slothing around at the beach, these titles offer a mix of true stories, fiction and unforgettable characters who bring the ocean, waves and the shore to life.
And who better to ask than our eclectic team of surfers, yoga instructors, smoothie bowl whisperers and lovers of all that good stuff about their favourite books on surf life.
These are the titles we come back to again and again. They’re also the titles we recommend to guests and tuck into our own bags for long-haul flights.
What lies before you are 14 books that speak to family life, relationships, wild adventures and quiet moments around the ocean. And we hope you enjoy them as much as we did.
Happy reading, word/surf nerds!
14. High Tide: A Surf Odyssey by Chris Burkard
A visual stunner that’s as adventurous as it is artful.
Photographer Chris Burkard takes readers on a cold-water surf trip around the world, capturing remote waves in Iceland, Norway, Russia and beyond.
It’s not just a book about surfing… it’s about the places, people and wild conditions that make the ride unforgettable. Every shot feels like a postcard from the edge of the earth. Because it is.
Perfect for: Dreamers, explorers and anyone who judges a surf book by its cover (because this one’s gorgeous). Buy it here.
13. It’s Only Drowning by David Litt
This one’s already making waves.
A #1 bestseller in surfing, It’s Only Drowning follows David Litt (a former Obama speechwriter) as he moves to the Jersey Shore and tries to learn to surf from his brother-in-law: a tattooed, truck-driving Joe Rogan fan.
What begins as awkward surf lessons becomes a journey across coasts and cultures… all the way to Hawaii’s North Shore. It’s sharp, funny and surprisingly moving. A page-turner if there ever was one!
Perfect for: Anyone who’s ever thought it’s too late to start something hard… and found out they were wrong. Buy it here.
12. The Wave by Susan Casey
Equal parts thriller and deep dive into ocean science, this book explores the massive waves that challenge even the world’s best surfers.
Featuring interviews with big-wave legends and marine researchers, it’s a high-energy look at nature’s raw power. If you missed this one the first time around, now’s your moment.
Perfect for: The adrenaline-loving reader who has a taste for extreme adventures. Buy it here.
11. Saltwater Buddha by Jaimal Yogis
A mix of memoir, travel writing and Zen insight, Saltwater Buddha follows Jaimal’s journey from teenage runaway to spiritual seeker with plenty of beach detours in between.
It’s honest, funny and surprisingly grounded. It also shows how surfing a point break and life in the water can harness an almost religion-like following.
Perfect for: Anyone who’s ever felt lost and found something like hope in the waves. Buy it here.
10. Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
Gerry Lopez, aka Mr. Pipeline, reflects on a life lived close to the waves.
This collection of stories is calm, reflective and full of lessons. About the ocean, yes… but also about patience, community, family life and staying present. He wrote these memories with care. And it shows.
Perfect for: Anyone who sees surfing as more than just a sport. Buy it here.
9. In Search of Captain Zero by Allan Weisbecker
One of the most legendary surf trip memoirs ever written. This book follows Weisbecker’s journey through Mexico and Central America in search of a lost friend and perfect waves.
It’s packed with off-grid adventure, philosophical musings and the kind of detours that define the best true stories. There’s surfing, of course, but there are arguably more “Oh, snap” moments on the land.
Perfect for: The adventurer at heart who’s always chasing the next sign, wave or twist in the road. Buy it here.
8. The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw
This definitive book about surfing. Heavy, comprehensive and stacked with dry humour.
This book is essential reading for anyone who wants to understand the roots of the sport. Matt Warshaw takes us from Huntington Beach to Hawaii, from ancient Polynesia to the modern day, mixing facts, fun and knowledge with stories of local legends you’ve never heard of, but won’t forget.
Perfect for: Surf nerds and anyone who’s ever fallen down a rabbit hole on a website dedicated to surf lore. Buy it here.
7. Breath by Tim Winton
From beloved Australian author Tim Winton, this novel is as haunting as it is beautiful.
Set in a small town shaped by the sea, it tells the story of risk, adolescence and the pursuit of depth, both emotional and literal. Winton’s writing is deliberate and dedicated to the subtle, often fragile parts of growing up.
A true coming-of-age story told through the eyes of surfing in Australia.
Perfect for: Fiction lovers who want a literary dive into the psychological side of surfing. Buy it here.
6. Caught Inside by Daniel Duane
Set along the rugged California coast, this book is a thoughtful blend of memoir, nature writing and surf obsession.
Daniel Duane captures the rhythm of the dawn patrol, the solitude of the beach and the tension between wildness and routine.
It’s a book about relationships, rhythm and finding your own point of balance. And yes… also about getting “caught inside”.
Perfect for: The curious reader with a poetic streak and a love of the outdoors. Buy it here.
5. Surf Shacks by Gestalten
This visual gem gives you a peek inside the homes of surfers, artists and creative wanderers across the globe.
It’s about more than decor… it’s a celebration of surf lifestyle, place and the weird, wonderful ways people shape their spaces around the rhythm of the ocean. And yes… you’ll want to live in most of them. The best part about this book? We have it at Xanadu.
Coming to a coffee table near you!
Perfect for: Design lovers, daydreamers and anyone who’s ever looked at a hammock on a sun-drenched porch and thought, “That’s the life”. Buy it here.
4. Mindfulness in Surfing by Sam Bleakley
Sam Bleakley connects the dots between surfing, spirituality and the rhythms of the natural world.
Drawing on travels through Central America and beyond, this is a guide to finding clarity and connection through movement and water. He’s dedicated to surfingsurf as both craft and expression… and it comes through on every page.
Perfect for: Anyone who wants their surfing to feel a little deeper and more connected forward. Buy it here.
3. All for a Few Perfect Waves by David Rensin
A rich and rowdy oral history of Miki Dora: one of surfing’s most iconic, mysterious and divisive figures.
David Rensin interviewed more than 300 people to capture Dora’s story from every angle. The result is a portrait of genius, rebellion and contradiction. Not quite biography, not quite mythology, but something fascinating in between.
Perfect for: Fans of true stories, surf lore and complex characters who don’t fit the mold. Buy it here.
2. Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard
This one’s not your typical surf book, but it belongs here.
Yvon Chouinard, the founder of Patagonia, shares the philosophy and values that shaped one of the world’s most respected outdoor brands. From climbing gear to surfboards to sustainable business, it’s about finding balance between purpose and play.
It’s smart, grounded and full of lessons that stick. And if you’re a fellow surf biz owner, it’ll become something like a brand bible to you.
Perfect for: Readers who believe business can be done differently (and who see time in the water as part of the plan). Buy it here.
1. Barbarian Days by William Finnegan
A must read and arguably the most famous book about surfing ever written, this Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir from William Finnegan is as much about life, identity and search as it is about waves.
From San Diego to Fiji, Australia and South Africa, it’s a deeply personal exploration of childhood, travel and the restless pursuit of meaning. It’s part coming-of-age, part global surf trip and completely unforgettable.
Many call it the most accurate portrayal of surfing and surf travel put into words. We agree.
Perfect for: The thoughtful reader who likes their surf tales paired with cultural insight and personal memoirs. Buy it here.
Ready for your next surf trip?
Whether you’re flipping through pages at our retreat in Lombok or planning your next surf trip to other far flung locales around the world, these surf books offer a range of perspectives.
From quiet reflection to edge-of-your-seat adventure. They speak to the soul of surfing and the many ways it shapes our past, present and future.
Thanks for reading. We hope these titles find a spot on your shelf… or in your carry on.
